Dry or dehydrated skin: Here’s how to diagnose it according to professionals
Assuming you applied your face cream this morning and it did just what you wanted it to do, you probably haven’t done your nails even though your skin is dry or dehydrated.
‘You can really see and feel the difference between dry and dehydrated skin,’ he says Georgia Lewis, La Mer Global Ambassador and Facialist to Jennifer Aniston. ‘Dehydrated skin feels tight and looks dull with superficial fine lines. Dryness can appear as redness, flakes and uneven texture.’
Also important: dryness indicates a skin type. Dehydration is a temporary skin condition that can be reversed.
Here’s a breakdown of the key differences and what you can do to make your skin look as perfect as your Paris filter…
Do a DIY test
Smile to check for dehydration – it’s that simple.
‘If it feels tight you’re probably suffering from dehydrated skin,’ says Lewis. ‘If you see dark circles and an increase in fine lines, this is also a sign.’
To test for dryness, gently rub an area of skin. ‘If you see the skin cells as flakes, or your face becomes red and inflamed quickly, you have dry skin.’
Dry skin and how to treat it
Dry skin lacks oil because it produces less sebum than normal skin.
‘As a result, it lacks the lipids needed to retain moisture, smooth rough skin and keep the skin’s barrier strong,’ he says. Paula BegoneFounder of Paul’s Choice Skincare.
This is especially true for dark skin, which naturally has lower lipid levels than white skin. What’s more, dead cells on its surface don’t slough off as quickly, which can give darker skin a gray color.
Lactic acid is an exfoliator that is gentle enough to use on dry skin to eliminate this shine.
‘Avoid over-exfoliating as this will strip the skin of moisture,’ says Lewis. ‘Once or twice a week should be enough.’
Inky List Lactic Acid Exfoliant, £7.99, LookFantastic
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When scanning the ingredient list in search of the best moisturizer for dry skin, look for humectants like glycerin, which draw moisture from the environment into the skin.
Repair of ceramides is also important [a form of lipids or fat molecules],’ says Begoun. ‘They fill the gaps between skin cells by creating a protective layer that limits moisture loss and protects against damage from pollution.’
In other words, ceramides give the skin its plump, hydrated, balanced appearance.
On labels, you’ll see them listed as ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NG, ceramide NP, ceramide NS, phytosphingosine and sphinosine.
All these products are a rich source of ceramides:
Drunken Elephant Red Whipped Retro Cream, £50, Cult Beauty
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Elizabeth Arden Limited Edition Advanced Ceramide Capsules, £67, Great look
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Ceraway Hydrating Cleanser, £9, LookFantastic
Buy at home
Paula’s Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer, £55, Net-a-Porter
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Dehydrated skin and how to treat it
On the other hand, dehydrated skin lacks water, not oil. ‘So your complexion may be oily but your skin is still dehydrated,’ says Louise.
Dehydration is caused by many factors, but the most common are low humidity, diet, hot showers and central heating, which draw water to the skin and make it more sensitive during the harsh winter months.
Look for moisturizers with ingredients that prevent water loss. Hyaluronic acid is the gold standard because it is a sponge-like molecule that naturally attracts water. It then binds it to your skin’s collagen, giving your face back its plumpness.
You’ll find hyaluronic acid in all of these products:
Dr.Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Hydration Booster, £68, LookFantastic
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La Mer The Moisturizing Cool Gel Cream, £125, John Lewis
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Normal Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, £5.90, Cult Beauty
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The golden rule for both
Whether you have dry or dehydrated skin, the biggest mistake people make is layering their skin care incorrectly, Lewis says.
‘Always remember to keep your products in order,’ she says. ‘Start with the lightest, like a serum, and work your way up to the heaviest in texture. These are your creams, oils and sunscreen.’
Why is this important? Products designed to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, such as serums, are made of small molecules. Moisturizer, on the other hand, has larger molecules because it sits on the topmost layers.
‘A serum placed on top of a moisturizer can’t penetrate these larger molecules,’ she adds.
To seal the deal, Lewis also recommends using the oil as a final step at night. ‘Using a top coat like La Mer’s The Concentrate will lock in the nourishment from every other step of your regime.’
La Mer The Concentrate, £155, Harrods
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Trust us, this combo is guaranteed to restore even the most fragile skin to its youthfulness.
